Want to start cycling? How do you choose the right machine for you?

The article below is an abridged version of the original by Michael Stenning, re-published here with kind permission of the author. The full version can be found in the February/March 2003 edition of London Cyclist magazine.

London Cyclist is free with London Cycling Campaign membership, and can also be purchased from selected London bike shops.

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Buying a cycle

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City bikes, mountain bikes, touring bikes, bikes with two wheels, trikes with three, off-the-peg and made-to-measure models... How do you find the cycle that is right for you? Michael Stenning explains.

Freedom is usually the word people use to describe their feelings on discovering cycling or returning to it. A bicycle gets you around reliably and efficiently. If you have a bike you can race; commute; socialise; earn a living; travel; link your place of work or study with public transport; carry luggage and children or add attachments and move house or transport the entire family. A bicycle is a precision instrument that, if chosen carefully and cared for, will last for years.

Where do you start?

Linx at Brixton Cycles advising a customer

Linx at Brixton Cycles Co-op
talks customer Yemi Owodele
through the bikes on sale
© Rebecca Lack

If you are buying for the first time consider what you require of a machine and decide what sort of riding you are realistically likely to do. Some models are designed for a specific purpose, such as racing or commuting. Others are more flexible or can be modified to widen their range of use.

Will you use the bike on roads for commuting or touring? Will you use it off-road? Will you race on it? Do you want an upright model? Or are you taken by the low-lying recumbents? Are you after a bike with a crossbar (diamond frame) or one with an open frame?

Whatever your decision, you should buy the best you can afford and, if your budget is below £200, get a used bike. To help you decide which design is right for you, read our bike owner profiles; talk to friends and relatives; borrow their bikes or hire a variety of models to get a feel for the difference in the styles of cycle available.

Where and when to buy

Your first port of call should be your local specialist cycle shop [see Cycle Shops & Discounts]. A good one will listen to what you want and then advise you accordingly. Most offer a free first service after the first month's use to tension cables and spokes or adjust headsets. Department stores may appear to offer better deals but the staff seldom have the experience of those working in independent shops.

Saturday mornings are a bad bet if you want to buy something that requires consideration and discussion, such as a bike. And shops are unlikely to have time to arrange a test ride. Try to visit during the week - avoiding lunchtimes - when business is slower and staff have more time.

It is unlikely you will ride away with the bike of your dreams on your first visit: staff will need to check the machine before you take delivery and make any changes you have requested.

The right machine for you

Mountain bikes with a few modifications can make versatile machines for many people. They have strong frames and wheels, low gears to help with uphills and wide handlebars which inspire confidence. And, on a reasonable mountain bike you can attack potholes with confidence which on a road or touring bike would lead to wheel damage. They are smaller than traditional designs and have sloping top tubes (crossbars) which makes getting on or off easier. They have powerful (V) brakes. The knobbly tyres for gripping mud are hard and slow going on streets and are best changed to a smoother design (slicks). For city riding you may wish to fit mudguards and a rack. (From £300)

Hybrids are sturdy and designed for city use. They have V-brakes, flat handlebars, an upright riding position and strong wheels, but with smoother tyres than mountain bikes. They should have braze-ons (points on the frame at which you can fit a rack and mudguards). (From £300)

City bikes Visitors from the Netherlands or Germany are astounded that bikes sold in this country are not fitted with lights, a rack, a stand and mudguards as standard. Some shops now stock imported models that do. These offer a choice of diamond or open frame (no crossbar), derailleur or hub (enclosed, low maintenance) gears and look like the traditional, sturdy bikes that they are. (From £400)

Touring bikes are stable yet lively load-carrying machines with strong brakes; enough gears to ride up, down and along the Great Wall of China; all manner of braze-ons for mudguards, water bottles, dynamo lights, front and rear racks, and so on. Cheaper models are great for commuting and general use. More expensive bikes can be used for expedition touring. (From £300)

Folding bikes are becoming increasingly popular with commuters whose journey involves public transport. True folders have open frames so you can ride them regardless of whether you are in a suit or a frock; literally fold, and do so within minutes. They are too heavy to carry for any distance and the small wheels and limited range of gears restricts their use to flattish terrain and Tarmac. (From £450)

Electric bikes [see also our Electric-Assist Cycles page] boost your own efforts and so make uphills easier; may increase your average speed compared with a conventional bicycle and you may use cycle facilities. They are not classed as road vehicles so you do not need a licence or insurance. You must be over 14 to ride on roads. (From £450)

Hybrid

Gary Cummins (right), cycle campaigner, 5' 11", 12 stone, Peugeot Yale hybrid

My Peugeot Yale is my everyday workhorse. It takes me to work via the gym, a round trip of 6-7 miles. It also takes me shopping, to weddings, parties, and occasionally into Europe. It has carried me home along with bags of cement from the builders yard, and furniture from IKEA.

I bought it because it was fairly cheap - £250. Twelve years ago there was a lot less choice. (I knew a mountain bike was a duff idea for London - not enough mountains.) It is the largest size frame in the range (59cm) making it just the right height for the handlebars to hook over most railings to which I can lock it up. It has 700 size wheels - the largest for most bicycles which means it sails over the worst potholes.

I bought it mail order which meant it arrived with none of the essentials a bike needs in London: mudguards, rack, and, most importantly, a bell. It was fitted with quick-release levers on the wheels and the seat post. To deter the lightfingered, I replaced all but the one on the rear wheel (keeping this makes getting at the tyre to repair punctures easier) with Allen key fittings. The other parts I fitted at a maintenance workshop. It has never let me down but it has consumed a number of parts: a new pair of forks, a second headset, three bottom brackets, countless chains, three sets of chainrings, a second rack. I probably get through a pair of tyres every 12-18 months. The rear derailleur mech is still the original, but is due for replacement.

Should this bike be stolen, I would buy a similar model again. I would stick to derailleurs simply because of the ease of wheel removal for tyre and tube replacement. Also, being a cheap and cheerful bike, my hybrid is extremely undesirable.

Family bike

Tony Fincham, LCC member, 5' 6", 11 stone, Family Bike

I want to be able to take my son Joshua around on a bike as he has walking difficulties as a result of cerebral palsy. I saw the Family Bike at a show last year. It is made in Italy and has been imported for less than a year. My version cost £420. I certainly recommend it, subject to people having space to store it - the handlebars are wide. I've had it six weeks and Joshua and I have already had a great deal of fun with it. I use it twice a week for distances of four to six miles to take Joshua to appointments, shopping and social activities. I'll use it more in summer.

A child can sit in the front between the handlebars, which are u-shaped to accommodate the child's seat. It is also possible to have a second seat on the back of the bike, as is more usual, but if the child is on the front it means weight is more evenly distributed between the front and rear wheels and you can see, and more easily talk to each other. One of the seat options (shown) available means the child can help pedal.

When the child grows too big, you can replace the seat with a bag and carry a lot of shopping instead. Even if you are walking with the bike it's better than a buggy, because you can talk and interact with the child. I've started teaching Joshua the Highway Code, and he enjoys pressing the buttons to stop traffic at Pelican and Toucan crossings.

Mountain bike

Lucy Watson (left), 5' 9" 10 stone, Backwoods from GT

I got this style of cycle because I like mountain biking. I use it for this and for commuting. It is 2.5 years old. My journey to work is 3-4 miles each way. When I take it out of London, the bike gets a lot more punishment. On a recent trip to Mexico, I covered around 300km off-road. I usually cycle with a small rucksack with a change of clothes for work - or a Camelbak [a backpack for a drinking water supply] for longer off-road trips in places you need to carry water. I get it serviced regularly but have had punctures and have needed new chains, cogs and cables.

I would recommend this type of bike for mountain biking. It is also fine for London - but heavy and slow compared to a road bike - even when you change the tyres [to a design that puts up less resistance on Tarmac]. I'm not sure I see the point of a mountain bike if you never plan to go off-road. If you just want something that will handle potholes and the odd kerb, you'd be better off with a hybrid. If I were buying a new bike I would go for the same sort again - if you are into mountain biking, you have no choice. That said, my ideal would be to own three models: a mountain bike, a road bike, and a leave-outside-the-pub-£30 bike... Alas, I live in a small flat!

My bike would cost about £650 to replace. You can get a rubbish one for £100 or you can pay thousands of pounds! Next time I'd spend a bit more and get something lighter and which was a better fit. The geometry of the rider vs the bike can make a huge difference to the comfort and the speed but I hadn't got a clue about this when I bought mine.

Tourer

Rebecca Lack (right), Co-editor London Cyclist, 5' 2", 11 stone, Nigel Dean World Tourer (NDWT)

My tourer is an off-the-peg frame from Brixton Cycles Co-op (BCC) for which I chose the componentry. I wanted a bike with a crossbar for strength and stability - I briefly owned a mixte frame bike which shimmied [shook] uncontrollably at speed. Alas, BCC no Longer sells the NDWT but recommends the Orbit range (prices from £650) or getting a custom built bike.

I relegated my first tourer to hack bike when mountain bikes hit the cycle scene and brought in more gears across the board. My NDWT has very low gears and these increased my confidence and my horizons.

My bike has braze-ons for a heavy duty rack to carry my camping gear, and for three water bottles, and is comfortable enough to ride for days. I have covered thousands of miles on it but the wheels (700x32c) mean I slip on sand, come off on mud and get a flat if I hit a pothole when laden. And, in eastern Germany, cobbled roads wrecked my rear wheel. The brakes are old-fashioned but I can repair and adjust them. A few years ago, I swapped to flat bars as I often ride in urban areas and put my hands on the tops not the drops.

If I had the funds, I'd get a custom built bike with clearance for sturdier wheels and tyres and gear shifters on the bars (instead of on the downtube) as tourers and audax riders say how much less tiring having them in this position is.

Folder

Roger Seaward (left), Borough Co-ordinator Lewisham Cyclists, 5 '9", "far too heavy", Brompton

I've had it since April. I wanted a folding bike that would do just that. I did look at other designs, but Bike Fridays and Moultons are more collapsible than folding. And while Birdys are well-built with better brakes and gears, the Brompton has the best engineering and foldability.

They're ideal for anyone doing a short commute perhaps involving a train, or those with nowhere to store a bike at work. I also use mine for leisure cycling and commuting. But in bad weather, particularly in rain, I use a full-size bike. Small wheels disappear into potholes and send you for a somersault. Cobbles - especially wet ones - are also a problem.

I take it shopping - it fits in the trolleys. I've carried a total of 96 cans of cat food in the front basket and the rear carrier. But I live on a hill and had to walk the last hundred yards. I have also had the Brompton on my back while riding another bike. It was okay for a few miles. I think the saddle lets down the design. Rear wheel spokes keep breaking but nothing else. Most Brompton riders fear a rear-wheel puncture because it is complicated to remove the back tyre, but you line all the bits up and remember the order they go back in.

I recommend this design but be prepared for odd looks and ribbing. Prices start at £360 for a basic three speed. Tall riders need the telescopic or extended seat post.

Second-hand

Alix Stredwick, Newsletter Editor and and Media Officer, Tower Hamlets LCC, 5' 4", 8 stone

I got a second-hand bike because I couldn't afford a decent new one! I saw it in Loot. Tip: take someone with you for safety's sake and if they know anything about bikes, all the better. (My flatmate haggled the price down from £50 to £40.) And, if you think it is stolen, don't buy it. Do try it to see it's the right size and type for you. Check for rusty bits and that the gears, brakes and chain work. I had problems with the chain falling off. Do you need new tyres: I got about four punctures in the first year using the old (but not fully worn out) tyres that came with it. A comfy saddle is a major bonus. After buying it, take it to a bike shop for a full service, (about £20 basic plus parts).

I used it nearly daily for two years for: commuting (a mile each way), cycling to work meetings in town (round trip eight miles), shopping, weekend rides (35 miles), socialising, training for a sponsored ride across Spain... It is now a spare bike for when friends visit or my new one has a puncture and I don't have time to fix it. I sometimes had two massive panniers plus stuff bungeed onto the top of the pannier rack and even things hanging from the handlebars, too!

A second-hand bike is a good option if you are short of funds; not sure what type of bike you want; or new to cycling and don't want to shell out until you are sure you like it. You still need a good D-Lock though - I have had two second-hand bikes stolen.

Trike

Jean Trafford (left), LCC member, 5', 62kg, Pashley Premier

I've had it 10 years. I got it after a colleague said it might be a way to get to the office without the hassle of parking. I paid £650 to £700 for it then. Second-hand ones would be cheaper. It is a man's touring model, very light with 12 gears and a parking brake. There's a shopper's model but I found it heavy.

Now I am retired and I use it six times a week. I ride within a five to six mile radius of where I live. I have a carrier and can carry a week's shopping. I ride with my grandchildren, to the station and use it for general getting around. I average one puncture every two to three years and occasionally the brakes - hydraulic - need adjusting.

I strongly recommend a trike for people who are nervous about modern roads. It is stable and cars give me greater clearance than they did when I rode a bike. You can give clear hand signals and right-hand turns are easier. I just sit stationary, if necessary, no dismounting. I know to within a few minutes (depending on wind direction) how long a journey will take and there are no parking problems or charges.